I've learned that jam making is a little bit like quilt making...every step is critical to the success of the finished product. Quilt making requires (1) the understanding of color theory and selection of the perfect fabrics, (2) precise cutting and sewing, and (3) masterful quilting. Jam making requires (1) the understanding of various varieties of fruit and selection and use at the precise time when the sugar content is high, (2) tried and true recipes, and (3) artful presentation.
As you well know, I'm working on #2 by spending my summer finding/developing recipes for each fruit. My reference material includes Put 'Em Up, Blue Chair Jam Cookbook (thanks to Jana as she gave it to me for Christmas), countless Internet recipes and other resources, and the information included in each box of pectin. It seems obvious as I write this, although it's just recently become crystal clear to me, the fruit is the key to excellent jam. Recipes are important, but definitely back seat to #1...the fruit. Flavorless fruit, flavorless jam!
I think the reason I didn't realize this sooner is because of my limited exposure to the myriad species/varieties (groups and subgroups) of different fruit. For example, there are as many as 40 species of plum trees with numerous varieties within each species. Colors (inside and out) ranging from green, yellow, orange, red-orange, to shades of purple. Crisp flesh, soft flesh. Cling and free-stone. Tart to sweet. Grocery shopping at Safeway or any other large chain offers only a couple of varieties of plums and only those that are commercially grown, which are definitely not the most flavorful. Higher-end markets, like Whole Foods or New Seasons (Portland), offer a wider range of varieties that are often "local grown" (although, that term can be misleading). The best places to find a wide range of locally grown fruit worthy of jamming are either farmers' markets or roadside stands. Both of which are plentiful in our area.
Years ago when Verne and I took a series of culinary classes at Home Chef, we were taught, "cook with the same wine you'd drink." That is to say, use only the highest quality ingredients if you want high quality results. Same goes for jam making. This past week we had the pleasure of picking plums from a friend's trees. What fun! The larger of the two plum varieties was a beautiful color...
but, they'd gotten badly sunburnt when the temperatures in our area had risen above 100 degrees that week. Also, I believe they were actually cooked by the extreme heat as their texture was soft and mushy. I was taken my the amazing colors (pretty enough to paint) and the wonderful experience of picking the fruit, but jam made from these plums would be mediocre at best. Not worth the effort! I invested very little time before I realized it was a lost cause and gave the plums to the chickens. I was disappointed as I wanted to surprise my friend with jam made from her plums. The second of the two plums we'd picked were tasty, but small with a large pit and a cling variety. There was no practical way to remove the pit without losing most of the plum. Guess I'll just have to wait for Wendy's plums to ripen in August and try again. They're everything I've come to expect from a plum...sweet, juicy, colorful, and freestone. Well worth the wait!
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